Router Bit Types Chart: Which Bit Should You Buy?
What's inside
- Router Bit Types Chart: Quick Buying Guide
- Which Router Bit Should You Buy First?
- Understanding Shank Size, Cutting Length, and Bearings
- Worked Example: Choosing a Straight Bit for a Shelf Dado
- Material Compatibility and Speed Limits
- Durability: What Wears First?
- Common Buying and Setup Mistakes
- Related Guides
- Router Bit Types Chart: Quick Buying Guide
- Which Router Bit Should You Buy First?
- Understanding Shank Size, Cutting Length, and Bearings
- Worked Example: Choosing a Straight Bit for a Shelf Dado
- Material Compatibility and Speed Limits
- Durability: What Wears First?
- Common Buying and Setup Mistakes
- Related Guides
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Choose a straight bit for grooves and dadoes, a flush-trim bit for copying edges, a round-over bit for softening corners, and a rabbeting, chamfer, or ogee bit when the profile shown in the chart matches your project.
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Contents
- Router Bit Types Chart: Quick Buying Guide
- Which Router Bit Should You Buy First?
- Understanding Shank Size, Cutting Length, and Bearings
- Worked Example: Choosing a Straight Bit for a Shelf Dado
- Material Compatibility and Speed Limits
- Durability: What Wears First?
- Common Buying and Setup Mistakes
- Related Guides
Router Bit Types Chart: Quick Buying Guide
The visual profiles below are simplified “pictures” of the cut shape rather than photographs: the left side represents the router bit’s cutting profile, and the result is described on the right. Use the chart to identify the different types of router bits before comparing brands or prices.
| Bit profile | Typical sizes | Cut it makes | Compatible materials | Best projects | Recommended shank |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ┃ Straight | 1/8–1/2 in diameter; 1/4–1 in cutting length | Flat-bottom groove, dado, mortise, or recess | Hardwood, softwood, plywood, MDF, plastic laminate | Shelves, joinery, hinge recesses, sign lettering | 1/4 in for light work; 1/2 in for deep or heavy cuts |
| └ Rabbeting | 1/4–1/2 in cutting depth; 1/2–1 in diameter | Step-shaped edge cut | Solid wood, plywood, MDF | Cabinet backs, window frames, picture frames | 1/2 in preferred; 1/4 in acceptable for shallow work |
| ◯ Round-over | 1/8, 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 in radius | Convex quarter-round edge | Hardwood, softwood, plywood edge banding | Table edges, shelves, handles, children’s furniture | 1/4 in for small radii; 1/2 in for large profiles |
| ⌞ Chamfer | 15°, 22.5°, 30°, and 45°; commonly 1/4–1 in | Angled or beveled edge | Wood, plywood, MDF, some plastics | Decorative edges, door panels, box lids | 1/4 in for trim; 1/2 in for broad bevels |
| ∩ Cove | 1/8–1/2 in radius | Concave semicircular groove | Solid wood and plywood with a clean veneer | Decorative trim, furniture rails, shelf details | 1/2 in for larger cove cuts |
| ⟲ Ogee | 1/4–1/2 in profile depth | S-shaped decorative edge | Hardwood, softwood, MDF, paint-grade boards | Tabletops, cabinet doors, furniture moldings | 1/2 in preferred for stability |
| ⊙ Core box | 1/8–1/2 in radius | Rounded-bottom channel | Wood, MDF, plastics at controlled speed | Fluting, sign grooves, drainage channels | 1/2 in for wide or deep channels |
| ⇥ Flush-trim | 1/4–1/2 in diameter; 1/2–1-1/4 in length | Copies a template or adjoining edge | Wood, plywood, laminate, MDF | Duplicate parts, laminate trimming, curved templates | 1/4 in for handheld light work; 1/2 in for long cuts |
| ↗ V-groove | 60° or 90°; 1/4–3/4 in width | V-shaped groove or point | Wood, MDF, acrylic with the correct speed | Signs, lettering, panel decoration, fold lines | 1/4 in is common; 1/2 in for larger sign work |
Which Router Bit Should You Buy First?
For a first router, buy a 1/4-inch straight bit, a 1/2-inch or 3/4-inch flush-trim bit, and a 1/4-inch round-over bit. Together, these cover grooves, template work, laminate trimming, shelf edges, and basic furniture projects. A 1/4-inch shank is widely available and works well in compact routers, but a 1/2-inch shank is stiffer and generally produces less vibration on large profiles.
If your router accepts both sizes, do not choose a 1/2-inch bit merely because it is larger. Match the shank to the cutting load. A small 1/4-inch round-over bit does not become safer or more accurate when mounted on a 1/2-inch shank; the important factors are balance, bearing quality, sharp carbide, and correct feed speed.
| Your situation | Best starting choice | Why | What to postpone |
|---|---|---|---|
| Budget under about $60 | Three-piece set: straight, flush-trim, round-over | Covers the most common workshop operations without duplicate profiles | Large decorative sets with profiles you may never use |
| New user with a compact router | 1/4-inch shank bits, 1/4-inch straight and round-over | Lower mass and compatibility with most compact models | Large ogee, panel-raising, and long mortising bits |
| Frequent furniture building | 1/2-inch straight, rabbeting, flush-trim, and round-over bits | Better rigidity for repeated cuts and deeper passes | Very small bits that duplicate your 1/4-inch collection |
| Sign making | 60° V-groove, 1/8-inch or 1/4-inch straight, and core box bits | Handles outlines, narrow lettering, and rounded channels | Decorative edge bits intended for table edges |
| Laminate or template work | Top-bearing flush-trim and bearing-guided bevel bit | Guides the cut from a template or laminate edge | Unbearinged bits unless you have a fence or guide system |
Understanding Shank Size, Cutting Length, and Bearings
A router bit’s shank is the smooth cylindrical section held by the collet. Insert at least 3/4 of the shank into the collet, while leaving enough clearance that the bit does not bottom out. Never use a 1/2-inch-to-1/4-inch adapter as a substitute for a correctly sized bit; adapters can reduce grip and concentricity.
Cutting diameter and cutting length are separate measurements. A 1/2-inch straight bit with a 1-inch cutting length can remove material from a deeper board than a 1/2-inch bit with a 1/2-inch cutting length, but it should not be plunged to full depth in one pass. For most hardwoods, plan on passes of roughly 1/8 to 1/4 inch, depending on router power, grain direction, and bit sharpness.
Bearings are useful on flush-trim, rabbeting, round-over, and chamfer bits because they establish the edge position without a separate fence. They are also a wear item. A bearing that feels rough, rattles, or leaves black marks should be replaced rather than lubricated with a general-purpose spray that can attract dust.
Worked Example: Choosing a Straight Bit for a Shelf Dado
Suppose a shelf is 3/4 inch thick and must fit into a dado. Measure the actual shelf with calipers; nominal “3/4-inch” plywood may measure about 23/32 inch, while solid stock can vary with moisture. If the shelf measures 0.720 inch, use a bit close to that width or make a first pass with a smaller bit and widen the dado using a fence.
For a 3/4-inch shelf in solid wood, a 1/2-inch straight bit can make the dado in two passes: first at 1/2 inch from one reference edge, then shift the fence by approximately 0.220 inch to reach the measured shelf thickness. Test the fit on scrap first. The calculation is simple—0.720 inch shelf width minus 0.500 inch bit width equals 0.220 inch of additional opening—but router fences and grain can introduce small errors, so the test cut matters more than the arithmetic.
Material Compatibility and Speed Limits
- Solid hardwood: Use carbide-tipped bits, shallow passes, and a steady feed. Dull bits show burning quickly, especially in maple, cherry, and dense tropical species.
- Softwood: Most profiles work well, but slow feeding can crush fibers and create resin buildup. Keep the bit moving.
- Plywood: Use a sharp bit and support the exit edge to reduce veneer tear-out. A climb cut can help only as a small finishing pass, because it is harder to control.
- MDF: Carbide bits work, but MDF dust is abrasive and wears edges faster. Use dust extraction and clean the bit after use.
- Plastic laminate: A flush-trim bit is usually the right choice. Excessive speed or a dull bit can melt the edge instead of cutting it.
Small bits can generally run faster than large bits because their cutting edge travels a shorter distance per revolution. Follow the router and bit manufacturer’s speed chart. As a practical rule, a large 2-inch-diameter profile may need around 12,000–16,000 revolutions per minute, while a small 1/4-inch bit may operate around 20,000–24,000 rpm. These are starting ranges, not universal settings; the bit’s instructions take priority.
Durability: What Wears First?
The carbide cutting edges usually lose sharpness before the steel body fails. Bearings may wear sooner when cutting abrasive MDF or dirty reclaimed wood. Resin and pitch buildup can make a sharp bit behave like a dull one, increasing heat and burning. Clean bits with a purpose-made resin remover or the product recommended by the manufacturer, then dry them completely.
Store bits so carbide edges cannot strike one another. A basic three-bit set may cost roughly $25–$60, while quality individual bits commonly range from $15–$50 and large profile bits can cost more. Replacing one frequently used straight or flush-trim bit is often better value than buying a large set containing unused profiles.
Common Buying and Setup Mistakes
- Buying a profile by its name without checking the actual radius, angle, or cutting depth.
- Using a bit whose cutting length is shorter than the material thickness and then forcing the cut.
- Taking the full depth in one pass, which increases chatter, tear-out, and motor strain.
- Routing against the intended feed direction or attempting a large climb cut without experience.
- Ignoring the bearing diameter when replacing a flush-trim or rabbeting bit.
- Continuing to use a bit after a carbide edge is chipped; it can produce vibration and a poor finish.
For most buyers, the best path is to purchase individual bits based on the next three projects: straight for joinery, flush-trim for templates and laminate, and round-over or chamfer for edges. Add rabbeting and cove bits when a project specifically calls for them, then move to ogee, core box, V-groove, and panel-raising profiles as your work becomes more specialized.
