Different Types of Hand Planes: Which One Should You Buy?
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Different Types of Hand Planes: Which One Should You Buy?
If you are buying your first hand plane, choose a low-angle block plane for small jobs, a No. 4-style smoothing plane for general furniture work, or a No. 5-style jack plane if you need one tool to flatten and size boards; specialized planes are worth buying only when your projects regularly require their specific cut.
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Contents
Hand plane types at a glance
The most useful way to compare different types of hand planes is by the workpiece size, cut depth, and amount of material each tool is designed to remove. The measurements below are typical ranges rather than fixed standards: makers vary in body length, iron width, and overall weight.
| Plane type | Typical body length | Typical blade width | Primary purpose | Ideal workpiece size |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Block plane | 6–10 in (150–255 mm) | 1 5/8–2 in (40–50 mm) | End grain, trimming, chamfers, small adjustments | Parts up to about 24 in long; edges and small surfaces |
| Jack plane | 14–18 in (355–455 mm) | 2–2 3/8 in (50–60 mm) | General-purpose stock removal and flattening | Boards and panels roughly 2–6 ft long |
| Jointer plane | 22–30 in (560–760 mm) | 2 3/8–2 5/8 in (60–67 mm) | Straightening long edges and faces | Long boards, tabletops, doors, and cabinet parts |
| Smoothing plane | 8 1/2–10 in (215–255 mm) | 2–2 3/8 in (50–60 mm) | Removing fine marks before finishing | Small to medium faces and furniture components |
| Shoulder plane | 5–10 in (125–255 mm) | 1/2–1 1/2 in (13–38 mm) | Trimming shoulders and cheeks of tenons | Joinery parts, generally under 12 in wide |
| Specialty plane | 4–24+ in (100–610+ mm) | Varies by design | Grooves, rabbets, curved work, or narrow profiles | Workpieces matching the plane’s specific profile |
Bench planes: the practical core of a workshop
Jack plane: the best first bench plane for rough boards
A jack plane is usually the most versatile bench plane. Its medium-length sole is long enough to begin flattening a board but short enough to follow moderate hollows without bridging them excessively. With a cambered iron and a relatively deep cut, it removes ridges, saw marks, and high spots. With a straighter, finely sharpened iron, it can also prepare a surface for finishing.
Choose a jack plane if you buy rough-sawn timber, work on furniture parts, or want one bench plane rather than a complete set. A typical metal jack plane weighs about 5–7 lb, so it has useful momentum but may feel tiring on a large tabletop.
Jointer plane: for length, not simply for power
A jointer plane is defined by its long sole, commonly 22 to 24 inches, rather than by an especially aggressive blade. The sole rides over hollows and cuts down high areas, making it useful for straightening long edges before joining boards and for flattening long faces.
It is often too long for small components. On a 12-inch cabinet rail, a jointer can bridge the work instead of correcting it. Buy one when you routinely prepare boards longer than about 4 feet, make tabletops, build doors, or need accurately straight mating edges.
Smoothing plane: for the final surface
A smoothing plane has a short sole, usually around 9 inches, and is set for a very fine shaving. The short body follows subtle changes in a surface more readily than a jointer plane. A finely closed mouth, a sharp iron, and a shallow cut are more important than maximum length.
For a first plane, a smoothing plane is a good choice if you mainly buy already-flattened boards or build small furniture. It is less suitable for removing substantial twist or thickness variation. A smoothing plane should refine a surface, not perform all the rough work.
Block planes: the small plane with the widest range of uses
Block planes are compact, commonly have a low cutting angle, and are comfortable for one-handed work. The low-angle configuration is especially useful on end grain, where it can reduce resistance and produce a cleaner cut. It is also handy for easing sharp edges, fitting drawers, trimming plugs, and making quick adjustments during assembly.
A block plane is the sensible first purchase for limited workshop space, occasional repairs, or projects made from prepared lumber. It will not efficiently flatten a dining-table top, and its short sole cannot establish a long straight edge. Look for an adjustable mouth, a blade that is easy to remove, and a body that fits your hand without forcing your wrist into an awkward angle.
Shoulder and other specialty planes
Shoulder planes for joinery accuracy
A shoulder plane cuts across the full width of its sole, allowing the blade to reach the shoulder of a tenon. This makes it different from a rabbet plane, whose blade and body are arranged to cut a step along an edge. Shoulder planes are valuable when you cut mortise-and-tenon joints by hand or tune machine-cut tenons.
Choose the width carefully. A plane that is narrower than the tenon shoulder will require overlapping passes; one that is too wide may not fit comfortably against the reference surface. For occasional joinery, a narrow shoulder plane can be enough. Dedicated furniture makers may prefer a pair of widths.
Other types of wooden hand planes
Traditional wooden hand planes remain practical, not merely decorative. A wooden jack or jointer plane is often lighter than a comparable metal plane, and the wood sole slides smoothly when waxed. Wooden planes can also be comfortable in cold workshops and are relatively simple to repair.
Common examples include wooden fore planes for aggressive stock removal, wooden jointers for long edges, and wooden smoothing planes for fine shavings. Their trade-offs are adjustment and wear: blade depth is often changed with a hammer, and the sole can expand, shrink, or wear depending on humidity and storage. A wooden plane is a strong choice if you enjoy traditional techniques and do not mind learning a less precise adjustment method.
Specialty planes include rabbet planes, plow planes, router planes, scraper planes, compass planes, and molding planes. These tools solve narrow problems extremely well. A router plane, for example, is excellent for leveling the bottom of a groove or mortise, but it is not a replacement for a bench plane. A compass plane is designed for convex or concave curves, where a flat-soled plane is unsuitable.
Which plane fits your situation?
| Your situation | Best starting choice | Why | What to add later |
|---|---|---|---|
| Limited budget and prepared lumber | Block plane | Handles trimming, end grain, and edge easing with low storage cost | Smoothing plane |
| One plane for varied furniture work | Jack plane | Can remove material quickly and take lighter finishing cuts | Block or smoothing plane |
| Small parts and boxes | Smoothing plane | Short sole and fine setting suit small faces | Shoulder plane for joinery |
| Tabletops, doors, or long boards | Jointer plane | Long sole helps establish straight edges and faces | Jack plane for faster roughing |
| Frequent mortise-and-tenon construction | Shoulder plane | Trims tenon shoulders accurately | Jointer or smoothing plane |
| Traditional hand-tool workshop | Wooden jack plane | Low weight, repairable body, and effective stock removal | Wooden jointer and smoother |
What matters more than the plane category
Blade sharpness, sole flatness, mouth geometry, and adjustment quality often matter more than a brand name or a small difference in body length. A plane with a sharp iron and a properly supported blade can outperform a more expensive plane that is poorly sharpened.
Check that the iron sits firmly, the cap iron or lever cap holds it without movement, and the sole does not rock on a known-flat surface. For a used plane, inspect the blade for enough remaining metal to sharpen safely, examine the sole for deep damage, and make sure replacement irons are available. Surface rust is usually manageable; a cracked casting, distorted body, or missing proprietary hardware may not be.
Setup, sharpening, and ownership costs
Before the first cut, flatten or tune only the areas of the sole that need attention, sharpen the iron to a consistent bevel, and set the blade for a shaving thinner than you expect. Test on scrap from the same species and reverse the cut direction if tear-out appears. A mouth opening of roughly 0.5–1 mm suits many fine cuts, while heavier work may need a wider opening.
A realistic sharpening setup may cost about $30–$150, depending on whether you use abrasive sheets, waterstones, diamond plates, or a honing guide. Replacement irons commonly range from about $25 to $100 or more. These costs are part of ownership: the cutting edge wears before the plane body, and a neglected iron makes every plane seem ineffective.
For example, if a $120 smoothing plane is used for 60 furniture projects, its body cost is about $2 per project before sharpening supplies. That is why a durable, serviceable plane can be better value than several inexpensive tools that are difficult to tune.
Bottom line
Buy a block plane for compact, general-purpose adjustments; a jack plane for the broadest capability; a jointer plane for long stock; a smoothing plane for final surfaces; and a shoulder plane when hand-cut joinery justifies it. Start with the plane that matches the largest task you perform regularly, not the most specialized tool you might use once. Add specialty and traditional wooden planes only when your projects reveal a repeated need.