How to Make a Band Saw Resaw Fence for Uneven Lumber
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Contents
Why use a fence for uneven lumber?
A standard band saw fence is designed to guide a straight, flat edge. Rough lumber often has neither. If you press a bowed or irregular board against a straight fence, it can rock, bind, or wander as the cut follows the changing edge. The result may be a tapered piece, a blade that twists, or a board that shifts suddenly.
A resaw fence for uneven lumber gives the board a stable reference while letting you steer its natural edge through the cut. The common shop-made version is a tall, adjustable fence with a rounded or narrow contact point. You pivot the board against that point until the blade tracks where you want it, rather than forcing a crooked edge to ride flush along a long straight fence.
This is a setup aid, not a cure for unsafe stock. Remove loose bark, dirt, and embedded metal; check for splits that could open under pressure. If the board rocks badly or has a sharp crook, flatten one face or edge first, or use a different workholding method.
Choose a fence style
For most home shops, a simple auxiliary fence attached to the factory fence is the most practical option. It should be tall enough to support the board and adjustable so its contact point can be set close to the blade. A narrow rounded nose reduces the length of edge that must stay in contact, making it easier to steer an irregular board.
A commercial resaw fence can be convenient if you resaw frequently or want quick adjustments. A shop-made fence is cheaper and usually adequate for occasional work. Search for a band saw resaw fence if you want an off-the-shelf option; check that it fits your saw’s table and fence arrangement before buying.
| Option | Best for | Trade-off |
|---|---|---|
| Shop-made tall auxiliary fence | Occasional resawing and irregular stock | Low cost, but needs careful alignment and clamping |
| Adjustable commercial resaw fence | Frequent resawing and repeatable setup | Faster to adjust, but costs more and may not fit every saw |
| Straight factory fence | Flat, straight-edged boards | Simple and useful, but a poor reference for a crooked edge |
Materials and dimensions
Use stable plywood or straight-grained hardwood for the body. A useful starting size is about 18 to 24 inches long and 6 to 8 inches tall. Make it long enough to support the work without making it so long that it becomes awkward to position. The correct height depends on your stock: the fence should support the board through the cut, but must not interfere with blade guides, guards, or the upper wheel cover.
For the contact point, use a hardwood dowel or a rounded piece of hardwood, roughly 3/4 to 1 inch in diameter. Set it near the blade, with the rounded surface facing the board. The round profile gives the board a small pivot area. Avoid a sharp corner that can catch an uneven edge. A bolt-on hardwood nose is easier to replace than a one-piece fence if it gets worn or damaged.
Attach the auxiliary fence to the saw’s existing fence with clamps or bolts through slotted holes. Slots allow small adjustments. Keep all fasteners and clamp handles clear of the board’s path. If your saw has no usable factory fence, make a base that clamps securely to the table, but test it for movement before switching on the saw.
For a basic build, you will need a saw to cut the plywood or hardwood, a drill, screws or bolts, and clamps. A set of woodworking clamps is useful if you do not already have a way to hold the fence firmly. There is no need to buy precision hardware for a one-off fence; stability and adjustability matter more than finish.
Build and adjust the fence
Cut the fence body square and smooth the edges. Mount the rounded nose near the blade-facing side, leaving enough room for the board to pivot without rubbing on the body. Add slotted mounting holes or another adjustment method, then attach the fence to the saw. The fence must not shift when pushed by hand.
With the saw unplugged, place a straight scrap against the contact point and check that the blade-to-fence relationship is sensible for your saw. Band saw blades can lead slightly during a cut, so the fence is not always set exactly parallel to the blade. Make a test cut in scrap and adjust the fence angle until the blade tracks without requiring you to twist the board hard. A small adjustment can make a substantial difference; change the angle in small increments rather than forcing the stock.
Set the fence position for the desired thickness, allowing for blade drift and the blade’s kerf. For example, if you want a piece about 1 inch thick and your blade removes roughly 1/8 inch, start with the fence set to leave slightly more than 1 inch, then measure the test cut and adjust. The actual kerf depends on the blade and its set, so a test is more reliable than assuming a nominal number.
A suitable wide band saw resaw blade can improve control on taller stock, but blade choice depends on your saw’s wheel width and manufacturer limits. A wider blade generally resists twisting better, though it needs a saw capable of tensioning it properly. A sharp, well-set blade matters more than buying the widest blade that can physically fit.
Make the cut safely
Before cutting, set the upper blade guide close to the stock—typically about 1/4 inch above it—and confirm that the blade is tensioned and tracking according to the saw’s instructions. Keep hands out of the blade line. Use push blocks or another suitable aid when the board is small, and do not reach behind the work to pull it through.
Mark the intended cut on the end of the board. Start with the rough edge against the rounded contact point and feed steadily, pivoting the board as needed to keep the cut on the line. Do not force a board that begins to bind or pull away from the fence. Stop the saw, wait for the blade to stop completely, and correct the setup or prepare the stock again.
Common failures have recognizable causes. A cut that curves away often means the blade is dull, under-tensioned, or being forced too quickly. A board that rocks needs more stable support or a prepared face. Burning can indicate slow feed, a dull blade, or a blade pinched by closing internal stress. If the kerf closes, back out only when safe and with the saw stopped; forcing the cut can damage the blade or throw the work.
When the first test piece comes off, measure its thickness at both ends and across its length. If it varies, adjust the fence or blade setup before cutting valuable stock. For occasional resawing, a carefully made plywood fence and a scrap-board test are usually enough. If you routinely process tall, expensive lumber, the time saved by a purpose-built adjustable fence may justify the higher cost.
