How to Use a Band Saw Fence with a Resaw Point Guide
What's inside
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. This post may contain affiliate links at no extra cost to you.
A band saw fence keeps a board moving straight during resawing, but a conventional fence is not always the best guide for the cut. A resaw point guide—also called a single-point fence or drift guide—lets you steer the board into the blade’s natural tracking path while still controlling the cut. This is useful when the blade does not run perfectly parallel to the miter slot or when the blade has a consistent drift angle.
Contents
What a Resaw Point Guide Does
A normal band saw fence has a long, flat face. You press the board against it and feed the workpiece forward. That works well when the blade tracks parallel to the fence. If the blade drifts left or right, however, you must either force the board against the fence or angle the fence to match the blade.
A point guide uses one contact point near the blade instead of supporting the entire length of the board. The board pivots slightly around that point as you feed it. You set the guide to match the blade’s drift angle, then keep the board lightly against the guide without forcing it sideways.
This setup is especially useful for resawing wide boards, cutting veneers, and making bookmatched panels. It is less useful for short workpieces, narrow ripping, or cuts where the edge must remain exactly parallel to the table slot.
Parts and Buying Choices
You can buy a dedicated band saw resaw point guide, make a simple wooden guide, or use a conventional fence adjusted to the required angle. The right choice depends on how often you resaw and how much adjustment your saw needs.
| Option | Best for | Advantages | Drawbacks |
|---|---|---|---|
| Dedicated point guide | Frequent resawing | Quick adjustment, compact contact point, repeatable setup | Costs more and may require a compatible fence rail |
| Wooden point guide | Occasional use and shop-made fixtures | Cheap, easy to shape, replaceable when worn | Less convenient and can move if poorly clamped |
| Angled conventional fence | General-purpose work | Supports the board along its length and is easy to understand | Can cause binding if you push the board hard against it |
A shop-made guide can be as simple as a hardwood strip with a pointed nose, clamped to the table or attached to a short fence. Use a durable, straight-grained piece about 3/4 inch thick. The point should be smooth and rounded enough that it will not gouge the workpiece. If you prefer a ready-made setup, a band saw fence and resaw guide is easier to adjust, but check whether it fits your saw’s table and fence rail.
Prepare the Band Saw
Start with the machine unplugged. Check that the upper and lower blade guides are close to the blade without touching it, then set the thrust bearings just behind the blade. The blade must be sharp, properly tensioned, and suitable for resawing. A blade roughly 1/2 to 3/4 inch wide is common on medium-size saws, with about 2 to 4 teeth per inch for thick stock. Narrower blades turn more easily but are less stable for tall cuts.
Inspect the board before cutting. Remove nails, staples, bark that can shift, and obvious twists. Joint or plane one face and one edge so the board has a reliable reference surface. A warped board can rock against the guide and pinch the blade even when the fence is set correctly.
Set the blade guard only high enough to clear the board by roughly 1/4 inch. This gives the blade better support and limits the amount of exposed blade. Make sure the table insert does not have a large gap around the blade.
Find the Blade Drift
Drift is the angle at which the board must be held to make a straight cut. It varies with blade sharpness, tooth set, tension, wheel alignment, and feed pressure, so do not assume a previous setting will still be correct.
Use a straight scrap board about 2 inches thick, 6 to 8 inches wide, and at least 18 inches long. Draw a straight line parallel to one edge. With the fence removed or moved well away, make a shallow cut along the line while feeding normally. Do not force the board to follow the line. When the cut is several inches deep, stop the saw and observe the angle of the board relative to the table or miter slot.
You can also make a test cut in a longer scrap and mark the blade’s actual path. The important measurement is not the angle in degrees; it is the position where the board naturally tracks without sideways pressure.
Set the Point Guide
Place the point guide near the front of the blade, usually 1 to 2 inches before the blade’s entry point. Align the guide so its contact point meets the board’s reference edge. Set the guide at the drift angle found during the test cut. The point should be close enough to control the board but not so close that chips or dust wedge between the guide and the blade.
Before starting the saw, place the workpiece against the guide and confirm that the blade will enter the layout line. Leave enough room behind the point for your hands and use push blocks or a shop-made handle when the board becomes difficult to control. A point guide does not replace safe hand placement.
Make another test cut through scrap. Feed at a steady rate—often around 1 to 3 inches per second on hardwood, depending on thickness, blade sharpness, and motor power. If the blade bows, the cut wanders, or the saw’s motor slows noticeably, reduce the feed rate or use a coarser, sharper blade.
Resaw with the Guide
Mark the desired thickness on the top and front edges of the board. Include the blade kerf; a 1/8-inch blade typically removes about 1/8 inch, though the actual kerf depends on the blade and tooth set. Keep the board’s jointed face against the table and its reference edge against the point guide.
Start the saw before contacting the blade. Feed smoothly and keep light, consistent pressure toward the guide. Do not clamp the board hard against the point. Let the guide establish the angle while your hands provide forward pressure and keep the board flat.
For a tall board, pause only after the board is fully clear of the blade. Stopping halfway can leave burn marks or create a crooked transition. If the cut begins to close behind the blade, withdraw the workpiece only if it can be done safely without twisting; otherwise stop the saw and let the blade come to a complete stop.
Common Problems and Fixes
If the cut wanders toward the fence, the blade may be dull, under-tensioned, or incorrectly tracked. If the board burns, slow the feed only after checking the blade; feeding too slowly can also create heat. If the two resawn surfaces are not parallel, check that the table is square to the blade and that the board’s reference face is flat.
A point guide is not a cure for a poorly adjusted band saw. Correct wheel tracking, blade tension, guide bearing position, and table alignment first. For occasional resawing, a simple wooden guide is often enough. Pay more for a dedicated guide when you resaw regularly and value faster, repeatable drift adjustments.
