How to Install a Resaw Fence on a Stationary Band Saw

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Choose the right fence

A resaw fence guides a board on edge through a band saw blade so you can cut it into thinner boards. Unlike a standard rip fence, it may need a tall face, a curved or adjustable guide, or both. The right setup depends on whether you are making occasional cuts in straight stock or regularly resawing boards with knots, taper, or natural edges.

Before buying, check your saw’s table size, blade width, fence attachment method, and clearance around the upper blade guides. A fence that clamps to the table may be enough for occasional work. A fence designed for resawing can make it easier to steer irregular stock, but it does not replace a sharp blade, adequate blade tension, or a saw with enough capacity.

What to buy

For straight boards, look for a fence with a face tall enough to support the stock securely without interfering with the blade guides. A face around 4 to 6 inches tall is useful for many resawing tasks; confirm it fits your saw and workpiece rather than treating that range as a universal requirement. A long, flat face is helpful for consistent thickness, while a shorter guide can be easier to adjust when steering a board along a line.

If you want a ready-made option, compare band saw resaw fences by their mounting method, adjustment range, and face height. A basic fence is often fine if it locks squarely and does not move under hand pressure. Avoid choosing by advertised maximum resaw capacity alone; the saw’s actual capacity and setup matter more.

Some woodworkers make a tall auxiliary fence from straight plywood or hardwood and clamp it to the existing fence. This is inexpensive and sensible for occasional cuts, but it needs secure clamps and a face that is flat and square. If you plan to steer the stock to compensate for blade drift, consider a fence with a pivot or adjustable guide rather than forcing the board against a fixed face.

Prepare the saw before installation

Unplug the saw before fitting or adjusting the fence. Install a suitable resaw blade, then check that it is sharp, correctly tensioned for the saw, and tracking properly on the wheels. A blade commonly used for resawing is roughly 1/2 to 3/4 inch wide, but the saw maker’s limits and the blade’s tooth pattern are more important than a generic size recommendation. A dull or under-tensioned blade can wander even with a good fence.

Set the blade guides close to the workpiece without touching it, and verify that the guides and thrust bearing are set according to the saw manual. Clear the table and check that the fence can travel past the blade without hitting the guide assembly. If your saw has a movable upper guide post, confirm it can still be positioned close to the work after the fence is installed.

Install and align the fence

Attach the fence using its clamps or the saw’s rail system. Tighten it enough that it cannot shift when pushed from the side, but do not overtighten clamps in a way that bends a thin table edge or distorts the rail. With the saw unplugged, bring the fence near the blade and check that its face is parallel to the blade’s direction of travel. A straightedge against the blade plate can help with this check, but do not press against the teeth.

For a fixed fence, start with the face parallel to the blade and make a test cut in scrap. If the board presses hard against the fence at the front but opens a gap at the back, the blade may be drifting. A small adjustment to the fence angle can reduce that pressure. Make changes in small increments and repeat the test; there is no universal angle because drift varies with the blade, tension, and saw condition.

For a point-style guide, set the guide close to the blade and place its contact point near the front of the blade. Follow the fence maker’s instructions for positioning. The aim is to steer the board steadily along the cut line, not to push it sideways into the blade. If you need a tall face for support, use a guide that permits steering or add a suitable auxiliary face without blocking the adjustment.

Test the setup and cut safely

Use a straight scrap board similar in thickness and height to the stock you intend to cut. Mark a line along its edge, then make a slow test cut without leaning heavily on the fence. Stop if the blade bows, the board binds, the motor slows sharply, or the cut wanders despite a steady feed. These are signs to inspect blade sharpness, tension, feed rate, and fence alignment—not reasons to push harder.

For repeatable thickness, measure the distance from the blade to the fence at the table and near the top of the workpiece. A tall fence that is not square to the table can tilt the board and produce tapered stock. Use a push block or other appropriate aid to keep hands clear, and support long boards so their weight does not twist them during the cut. Keep the blade guard and guide assembly as close to the work as practical.

Common problems and fixes

If the fence slips, clean the clamping surfaces and check that the mounting hardware is suited to your table. If cuts are wavy, first check blade condition, tension, and feed speed; a fence cannot correct a blade that is flexing. If the board burns, reduce feed pressure and inspect for a dull blade, resin buildup, or an overly slow cut. For narrow stock, a tall fence can make the board unstable; use a safer support arrangement or choose a different cutting method rather than balancing the piece against a high face.

A low-cost clamp-on fence is a reasonable choice for occasional resawing of straight boards. For frequent work, especially when stock varies, a purpose-built adjustable fence can save setup time and make steering more controlled. Whichever you choose, test it on scrap after installation and recheck the clamps and alignment whenever you move or remove it.