How to Set a Band Saw Fence for Consistent Resaw Cuts
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A band saw fence does not have to sit perfectly parallel to the blade to make straight resaw cuts. Many saws cut more consistently with the fence angled slightly to match the blade’s natural drift. The reliable method is to fit a suitable blade, test how it tracks in your wood, then set the fence from the test cut—not from the table slot or blade body alone.
Contents
Start with the right blade
A fence cannot compensate for a dull, narrow, or poorly tensioned blade. For resawing, use the widest blade your saw is rated to tension and guide properly. A 14-inch saw commonly handles a 1/2-inch blade; some models accept 3/4-inch blades, but check the manual. Wider blades resist twisting, which helps them hold a straight line through thick stock.
Blade width is only part of the choice. A 3- or 4-teeth-per-inch blade with a regular or skip-tooth pattern clears sawdust better than a fine-tooth blade. A blade around 0.025 inch thick is common for this work, but the saw’s wheel size and manufacturer limits matter. A blade that is too thick for the wheels can fatigue and crack; one that is too narrow can wander under feed pressure.
If resawing is a regular job, a dedicated resaw blade is worth considering. For occasional cuts, a sharp general-purpose blade of suitable width may be adequate. Browse band saw resaw blades by width, tooth pitch, and compatibility with your saw rather than relying on the word “resaw” alone.
Prepare the saw and workpiece
Unplug the saw before fitting the blade or adjusting guides. Install and tension the blade according to the manual, then track it on the wheels as specified. Set the thrust bearing just behind the blade so it does not spin during an unloaded cut. Position the side guides close to the blade without pinching the teeth; the gullets should clear the guide faces.
Check that the table is square to the blade, and clean pitch or sawdust from the table and fence. A rough tabletop can make a board feed unevenly, which looks like blade drift. Use stock with a reasonably flat reference face against the table and a straight edge against the fence. If the board rocks or has a bowed edge, joint or flatten it first. A fence cannot make irregular stock feed straight.
Set the fence height and support before cutting tall stock. Keep the workpiece stable, use a push stick or push block where appropriate, and keep hands out of the blade path. Never force the feed to correct a wandering cut; heavy pressure can twist the blade, overheat it, or pull the board away from the fence.
Test for blade drift
Use a straight piece of scrap similar in thickness and species to the job. Draw a line parallel to a straight edge, then make a freehand cut along the line for several inches without steering the board against the fence. Stop the cut while leaving the board connected, switch off the saw, and wait for the blade to stop. The board’s angle in the kerf shows the blade’s natural tracking direction.
Repeat the test if the result is unclear. A short, hurried cut can reflect poor feeding rather than true drift. If the blade consistently departs from the marked line, adjust the fence angle so its face follows the direction the stock naturally traveled. The fence should guide the board without forcing it sideways into the blade.
Set the fence for the cut
Use a scrap board with a straight edge against the fence. Set the fence at the desired resaw width, then make a test cut while feeding steadily and letting the blade do the work. If the cut curves toward the fence or the board needs constant steering away from it, change the fence angle a small amount and test again. A few degrees can make a noticeable difference; make small adjustments rather than swinging the fence far at once.
When the test cut is straight and the board feeds without being pushed sideways, lock the fence and mark its setting if you will repeat the job. Verify the actual cut width with a ruler or caliper; fence scales are not a substitute for a test cut. If your fence only adjusts parallel to the table slot, a resaw fence that pivots at its front end can make drift adjustment easier. A simple shop-made single-point fence can also work well, especially for narrow stock.
Fence options and trade-offs
| Fence setup | Best for | Trade-off |
|---|---|---|
| Standard parallel fence | Occasional resawing when the blade tracks close to parallel | May require steering if the blade has noticeable drift |
| Adjustable resaw fence | Frequent work or saws that need a repeatable drift angle | Costs more and takes setup; check that it locks firmly |
| Shop-made pivot fence | Low-cost setup for testing drift or cutting varied stock | Needs a flat, stable base and careful clamping |
If you buy a fence, prioritize a rigid face, secure locking, and enough height for your stock over extra scales or accessories. Compare band saw resaw fences with your table size and mounting arrangement; many are not universal. If you resaw only a few boards a year, a shop-made fence is often the sensible choice.
Read the cut and correct the cause
A rough, rippled face usually points to feed rate, blade sharpness, or tooth pitch—not fence angle alone. Slow down slightly and check for a dull blade or clogged gullets. If the blade bows away from the fence mid-cut, the stock may be too thick for the blade, the feed may be too fast, or the blade may be under-tensioned. Recheck the saw’s tension guidance rather than tightening beyond its rating.
If a cut starts straight and then drifts, check that the board’s fence edge stays in contact and that the stock is not twisting. For long boards, use an infeed or outfeed support at table height; a sagging end can steer the work. After changing blade type, stock species, or cut height, make another test cut. Drift can change, and a fence setting that worked on one setup is not a permanent calibration.
