How to Reduce Drift When Resawing on a Band Saw
What's inside
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. This post may contain affiliate links at no extra cost to you.
Contents
Why a bandsaw blade drifts
Drift is the angle a blade naturally follows as it cuts, even when the fence looks parallel to the blade. In a resaw cut, that small angle can leave a board wedge-shaped: one face is thinner at one end than the other. Drift is not always a sign of a bad saw. It can come from blade geometry, blade condition, setup, or the way the wood feeds.
Start by distinguishing drift from other problems. A blade that wanders within a cut, leaves a rough or rippled surface, or stalls may be dull, too narrow, under-tensioned, or pushed too fast. A consistent angle that appears only when using the fence is more likely a fence-alignment issue. Correct the cause before trying to compensate with fence angle.
Choose a blade suited to resawing
For most resaw work, use a sharp blade with a wide back and relatively few teeth per inch. A 3/4-inch blade is a common starting point for a saw that can tension it properly; a 1/2-inch blade may be a better match for a smaller machine. Check the saw manual for the allowed blade width and tension guidance. A wide blade resists twisting, but it will not help if the saw cannot tension it adequately.
Tooth count is a trade-off. A 2- or 3-TPI blade clears sawdust well in thick cuts and tends to feed efficiently. A finer blade can leave a cleaner surface but may clog or heat up in dense stock. Skip-tooth blades are a practical choice for general resawing; specialized hook-tooth or carbide blades can cut faster or last longer, but cost more and are not necessary for occasional work.
A blade that is dull, kinked, or unevenly sharpened may drift no matter how carefully you set the fence. If the saw cuts worse than it did with the same blade and setup, try a fresh blade before buying accessories or making major adjustments. Browse 3/4-inch resaw blades around 2–3 TPI only after checking that your saw accepts that width.
Test the drift before setting the fence
Drift varies with the blade, so set the fence to the blade you intend to use. First check that the table is square to the blade and that the blade guides are close to the blade without pinching it. Set blade tension according to the saw maker’s instructions. Then make a freehand test cut in scrap, roughly 6–8 inches long, using a board with a straight edge. Do not steer the board to make the cut follow a line; let the blade establish its natural path.
Stop the saw and mark the angle of the cut on the table with a straightedge or a strip of masking tape. Align the fence with that line rather than assuming it must be parallel to the front edge of the table. On a fence that pivots, loosen it, set the angle, and lock it securely. On a fixed fence, use an adjustable fence face or shim one end. Make another test cut, then check the result before using valuable stock.
Ways to set the fence
| Method | Best for | Trade-off |
|---|---|---|
| Freehand test cut and align fence | Most saws and blades | Simple and repeatable, but needs a straight scrap board and careful marking |
| Adjustable or pivoting fence | Frequent resawing or changing blades | Quick to reset; costs more and still needs a test cut |
| Shim a fixed fence | Occasional work on a basic saw | Cheap and effective, but takes trial and error and may need resetting |
An adjustable resaw fence is convenient if you switch blades often or make repeated cuts at different angles. For occasional use, shimming a straight fence with thin card or plastic is usually enough. A tall auxiliary fence can support wide stock, but it must sit squarely and stay rigid; a tall, loose fence can make the cut less predictable, not more.
Prepare the stock and feed steadily
Resawing magnifies small problems. Joint one face flat and one edge straight before cutting, so the board sits steadily against the table and fence. Remove dirt, loose bark, and metal. Check for knots, internal stress, and grain that changes direction; stressed wood can close on the blade or pull the cut sideways. If the board rocks, bows, or has no reliable reference edge, flatten or stabilize it first.
Use the blade guard and keep the upper guides as close to the work as practical, while allowing the stock to pass without contact. Use a push stick or other suitable aid for the final part of a narrow cut, and keep hands clear of the blade path. Feed at a steady rate. Forcing the board can twist the blade; feeding too slowly can cause burning and waste heat. If the motor labors or the cut starts closing, stop and switch off the saw rather than pulling the stock backward against a moving blade.
Check the cut and adjust one thing at a time
After a test cut, measure thickness at both ends. A difference of 1/16 inch over a foot is enough to matter if you plan to plane the faces, but the acceptable amount depends on the final use and how much stock you can remove. If the cut is consistently tapered, adjust the fence angle slightly and test again. If the blade wanders from side to side, inspect its sharpness, tension, guides, and feed rate rather than continuing to rotate the fence.
Keep notes when changing blades: blade width, tooth pitch, fence angle, and the wood species are useful starting points next time. Drift can change between blades and sometimes between batches of wood, so verify with scrap after a blade change or a significant setup change. A bandsaw resaw fence with an adjustable face can make repeat adjustments easier, but it cannot compensate for a dull blade, poor stock preparation, or a saw that is out of setup.
