How to Set Up a Band Saw Fence for Straight Resawing
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A band saw can resaw boards accurately, but the fence must do more than provide a place to push wood. It needs to guide the workpiece while allowing for blade drift, uneven stock, and the sideways pressure created by a tall cut. A fence that is square to the table but not aligned with the blade can produce a tapered board or force the blade off its intended line.
Contents
What the Fence Needs to Do
For resawing, the fence should support the board continuously and stay rigid when you press the workpiece against it. It should also be adjustable so you can align it with the blade’s natural drift angle. This is different from ripping on a table saw, where the fence is normally set parallel to the blade.
A short, low fence can work for thin stock, but resawing usually benefits from a tall face between 4 and 6 inches high. The extra height keeps a wide board from tipping. The fence must still leave enough clearance for your hands and push equipment. If the board is more than about 8 inches wide, a tall auxiliary face is often more useful than the small factory fence.
Before buying a replacement, check the band saw table’s miter slot, fence rail, and available mounting holes. A universal band saw resaw fence may fit several machines, but mounting hardware and rail dimensions are not always interchangeable.
Prepare the Band Saw First
A fence cannot compensate for a poorly set-up saw. Unplug the machine and check the blade tension, tracking, guide bearings, and thrust bearings. The blade should track correctly on the wheel and run centrally on the guides. Set the side guides just behind the blade gullets, then position the thrust bearing slightly behind the blade’s back edge.
Use a sharp, wide resaw blade. A 3/4-inch blade with roughly 2 to 3 teeth per inch is a common choice for larger machines. Smaller saws may work better with a 1/2-inch blade because they cannot tension a very wide blade adequately. More teeth per inch gives a smoother cut in thin stock, but it also packs sawdust more easily and usually feeds more slowly.
| Blade choice | Typical use | Trade-off |
|---|---|---|
| 1/2-inch, 3 TPI | Smaller saws and boards up to about 6 inches wide | Easier to tension, but less resistant to wandering |
| 3/4-inch, 2–3 TPI | General resawing on medium and large saws | Tracks well, but needs adequate saw capacity and tension |
| 1-inch, 2–3 TPI | Wide, heavy stock on high-powered saws | Very stable, but expensive and unsuitable for many small machines |
Joint or flatten the reference face of the board before resawing. The fence can only guide one face; if that face rocks against it, the cut will vary even when the fence is perfectly aligned. Mark the board’s intended cut line on the end grain so you can see whether the blade is following the layout.
Find the Blade Drift
Blade drift is the angle at which a particular blade naturally travels through the wood. It results from tooth set, sharpening, blade tension, wheel alignment, and the condition of the blade. Do not assume the fence should be parallel to the blade or the miter slot.
Make a drift test in scrap wood about 1 inch thick and 6 to 8 inches wide. Draw a line parallel to one edge, then start the cut without forcing the board. Feed at a steady rate and stop when the cut is several inches deep. Keep the board in the position where it was cutting comfortably, then mark the angle of the board relative to the table or miter slot. Repeat the test once to confirm the result.
Alternatively, cut a shallow kerf in scrap and adjust the board until it follows that kerf without side pressure. The edge of the scrap then shows the blade’s natural travel. If the blade wanders badly or the drift changes from one test to another, inspect the blade and saw setup before adjusting the fence.
Set the Fence Angle
Loosen the fence just enough that it can move, then place the test board against it. Rotate the fence until the board follows the blade’s drift angle without being pushed sideways. On some fences, the front of the fence points slightly toward or away from the blade. That is normal.
Make a test cut in a board of similar width to your actual work. Keep the board firmly against the fence, but do not muscle it into the blade. Measure the thickness at the front, middle, and back of the cut. A difference of 1/32 inch over a short board is noticeable; a taper of 1/16 inch or more usually indicates drift misalignment, poor stock preparation, inadequate tension, or excessive feed pressure.
When the cut is correct, mark the fence position or add a reference line to the table. If you change to a different blade, repeat the drift test. Two blades with the same stated width and tooth count can still track at different angles.
Choose a Fence Design
A factory fence is often adequate for occasional resawing if it is rigid and tall enough. A simple shop-made fence from straight plywood or hardwood is the cheaper option and works well on many saws. Use a flat, stable face, reinforce the back if it flexes, and make sure clamps cannot shift during a cut.
A commercial fence is worth considering when you resaw frequently, use tall stock, or need repeatable adjustments. Look for a rigid rail, positive locking mechanism, adjustable drift angle, and a face that remains square to the table. A separate band saw fence rail system can improve rigidity, but it may cost as much as a basic benchtop band saw. For occasional work, that money is usually better spent on a quality blade and proper stock preparation.
Make the Cut Safely
Set the upper blade guide no more than 1/4 inch above the workpiece. Stand to the side of the blade’s path, start the dust collector, and let the blade reach full speed. Feed steadily without stopping in the cut. A slow, even feed produces a cleaner surface than forcing the board, which can bend the blade and create a tapered cut.
For boards wider than about 6 inches, use a push handle or purpose-built resaw guide that keeps your hands away from the blade. Do not use a narrow push stick that can slip between the fence and blade. At the end of the cut, support the offcut so its weight does not twist the board or pinch the blade.
If the blade pulls away from the fence, stop and check whether the board has a bowed edge, the blade is dull, or the feed rate is too high. If the cut burns, reduce feed pressure, clear packed sawdust, and inspect the blade. Do not keep adjusting the fence to hide a blade that is damaged or incorrectly tensioned.
