How to Build a Band Saw Blade Storage Rack
What's inside
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Band saw blades don’t take up much space when coiled, but they create a surprising storage problem. Leave them loose and they spring open, snag everything, and dull quickly from rubbing against each other. Stack them on the floor and you risk kinking a $30-50 blade. A dedicated rack keeps each blade separated, coiled at the right diameter, and visible so you grab the right TPI the first time.
A good rack does three things: it holds blades in their natural coiled shape (typically 12 to 15 inches diameter for 93-1/2″ to 105″ blades), prevents teeth from contacting metal or other teeth, and keeps them off damp concrete. You can build one in an afternoon from scrap plywood and dowels or pegboard hardware.
Contents
Choosing a Storage Method
There are three practical ways to store blades in a small shop, and the best choice depends on how many blades you keep and how much wall space you have.
For most home shops with 3 to 6 blades, a wall-mounted peg rack is the most efficient. It uses vertical wall space, keeps blades separated, and costs almost nothing. If you have 8+ blades or store carbon and bi-metal blades together, a shallow drawer rack is better because it protects teeth from dust and accidental bumps. Hanging blades unfolded from a single hook looks tidy in photos but is a bad idea in practice: a 105″ blade hung in a single loop swings, the weld catches, and the blade can uncoil unexpectedly.
Coiled diameter matters. Don’t force a 115″ blade into a 10-inch circle to save space. Over-coiling beyond three loops creates a tight memory kink that will thump every revolution and shorten blade life. Most blades coil naturally into three loops at about 1/3 of their total length in diameter. Let them find that diameter.
| Storage Method | Best For | Cost to Build | Downsides |
|---|---|---|---|
| Wall-Mounted Peg Rack | 3-6 blades, small shops | $10-$25 | Exposed to dust, needs wall space |
| Shallow Drawer Rack | 6-12 blades, mixed TPI/materials | $30-$60 | Takes drawer/cabinet space, more build time |
| Pegboard Hooks | 1-3 blades, temporary setup | $5-$15 | Blades can slip off, teeth exposed |
| Original Boxes / Flat Stack | Long-term storage, shipping | $0 | Hard to identify TPI, boxes tear, blades rub |
Materials and Tools
You don’t need hardwood for this. 3/4″ plywood or MDF for the backer and 3/4″ hardwood dowels or 1/2″ plywood pegs are plenty strong. A single coiled blade weighs under 1 lb, so shear strength is not the issue – preventing the peg from flexing and letting the coil slide off is.
For a basic wall rack that holds five blades:
3/4″ plywood, 24″ wide x 18″ tall for the backer. One 3/4″ x 36″ hardwood dowel cut into five 6-inch pegs. Wood glue and 1-1/4″ screws. French cleat or 2″ screws for wall mounting into studs. Optional: 1/8″ hardboard dividers, felt or plastic tubing to protect teeth.
Tools: drill press or hand drill with 3/4″ Forstner bit, saw, sander, tape measure. If you use a drill press, you will get cleaner, perpendicular peg holes with less blowout than a hand drill.
If you prefer not to turn your own pegs, heavy duty pegboard hooks rated for 10+ lbs work on a plywood backer with drilled holes, but verify the hook shaft fits snugly. Loose hooks let a coiled blade rock and eventually work itself off.
Building a Wall-Mounted Peg Rack
This is the simplest, most reliable design. It holds each blade on its own peg, separated by at least 2 inches so you can pull one without dragging the next.
1. Mark peg locations. On your 24″ x 18″ backer, draw a horizontal centerline. Mark five points spaced 4-1/2″ apart, starting 3″ from the left edge. Staggering heights by 1″ in a slight arc looks nice and adds finger clearance, but keeping them on one line is fine if your ceiling is low.
2. Drill peg holes. Set a depth stop to drill 1/2″ deep, not through. Use a 3/4″ Forstner bit at 90 degrees. Dry-fit the dowels – they should need a light tap with a mallet. If they are loose, wrap one turn of masking tape before gluing. Angle matters: drill exactly perpendicular. Pegs that angle downward will let blades slide off under vibration from nearby machines.
3. Add tooth protection. This is where most DIY racks fail. Bare wood against blade teeth will dull the set over time. Cut 5-inch lengths of 3/4″ split plastic tubing or wrap each dowel with a layer of adhesive felt. You can also dip the pegs in rubber coating for a non-slip surface that damps vibration.
4. Mount the backer. Attach a French cleat to the back or screw directly into at least two studs with 2-1/2″ screws and washers. Do not use drywall anchors. A rack with five blades plus the plywood weighs about 12-15 lbs, and the dynamic load when you yank a blade off is higher.
5. Label. Mark TPI, width, and length under each peg with a permanent marker or printed tags. For example: “105” x 1/2″ x 3 TPI – Resaw” and “93-1/2″ x 1/4″ x 6 TPI – Curves”. This saves the common mistake of mounting a 10 TPI blade for resawing and wondering why it burns.
To store a blade, coil it into three loops, secure it with a small twist tie or velcro strap (not wire – it kinks), and slip the coil over the peg. The coil should hang with the teeth facing inward toward the backer, not outward where your hand brushes them when reaching for the next blade.
Building a Drawer Rack Alternative
If dust is heavy in your shop or you keep bi-metal blades that you want to protect, build a shallow drawer insert instead of a wall rack.
Use a 3″ to 4″ deep drawer – deeper drawers let coils stack and tangle. Cut a 1/4″ plywood bottom liner and glue in 3″ tall dividers on 5″ centers to create 5 to 6 slots. Each slot holds one coiled blade on edge, like vinyl records. Line the bottom edge of each slot with cork or felt so teeth never touch plywood.
Add a 1/2″ dowel across the front of each slot, 1″ above the bottom, to keep the coil from rolling forward when you open the drawer. This dowel takes 10 minutes to install and prevents the most annoying failure: opening the drawer and having three blades flop together.
Drawer racks are also easier to handle if you buy in bulk. You can drop a whole coiled blade in its factory tie without hanging it. Just make sure the drawer slides are rated for at least 50 lbs – five coiled blades plus the divider structure will be heavier than you expect once you add plywood.
Safety and Mistakes to Avoid
Band saw blades store a lot of spring energy. Always wear gloves and safety glasses when coiling or uncoiling. The classic injury is letting a blade uncoil from one hand – it whips and the teeth catch your forearm. Coil by holding the blade at arm’s length, stepping on the bottom loop, and twisting with both hands until it folds into three.
Three common build mistakes: First, pegs that are too short. A 4-inch peg will not retain a 15-inch coil if someone bumps it. Use 6-inch pegs minimum. Second, spacing pegs less than 4 inches apart. You need hand clearance between coils or you will pull two blades at once. Third, mounting the rack above the band saw itself. Vibration and heat from the saw cause coils to slowly walk off pegs. Mount on an adjacent wall, not on the saw stand.
For rust prevention, wipe blades with a light coat of paste wax or tool rust preventative spray before storage if your shop is unheated or humid. Do not use WD-40 as a long-term protectant – it evaporates in weeks and leaves a gummy film that attracts dust to the teeth. If you see orange spots, hit them with a gray Scotch-Brite pad before they pit, then rewax.
Finally, don’t overbuild. A rack made from 2x4s and 1-inch steel pipe is overkill and wastes money. Plywood, dowels, and proper spacing will outlast the blades you store on it. The cheaper option is fine here unless you are in a production shop cycling 20+ blades a month.
