How to Build a Band Saw Blade Storage System
What's inside
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Contents
Plan the Storage System Around Your Blades
A band saw blade storage system has one job: keep blades separated, dry, and safely contained without forcing them into sharp kinks. A good system also makes it obvious which blade to use for resawing, curves, or general cutting.
Before building anything, count the blades you actually own and measure their rolled diameter. A typical 93-inch blade for a floor-standing band saw rolls into a circle roughly 10 to 14 inches across, depending on its width and tooth configuration. A shorter 72-inch blade may roll into a circle closer to 8 to 11 inches. Do not design the rack around the blade’s flat length; design it around the rolled diameter plus clearance.
Leave at least 1 inch between adjacent blades or pockets. That gives your fingers room to remove a blade and reduces the chance of one blade catching another. If the rack will hold wide resaw blades, allow more space. Their heavier steel and larger teeth make them harder to handle without scraping your knuckles.
Choose a Storage Style
There are three practical approaches: individual hanging hooks, a pegboard rack, and a cabinet or drawer system. The cheapest option is often fine if you have only two or three blades and a dry shop. A cabinet becomes worthwhile when you have several blade types or need to protect blades from dust and accidental contact.
| Storage type | Best for | Advantages | Drawbacks |
|---|---|---|---|
| Wall hooks | Two to five blades | Cheap, visible, easy to build | Blades are exposed; can be bumped or snagged |
| Pegboard rack | Mixed blade sizes and frequent use | Adjustable spacing, easy labeling | Needs a clear wall and sturdy hooks |
| Shallow cabinet | Many blades or dusty shops | Protects teeth and keeps blades contained | Costs more and takes longer to build |
| Drawer with dividers | Small blades and organized storage | Clean appearance and good protection | Requires a deep enough drawer for the rolled diameter |
For most home workshops, a wall-mounted plywood rack is the best balance. It is easier to inspect than a drawer, safer than loose hooks, and can be expanded when you buy another blade.
Materials and Tools
Use 1/2-inch or 3/4-inch plywood for the backer. Cabinet-grade plywood is not necessary; a flat sheet of construction plywood works if the edges are clean. Add hardwood dowels, metal pegs, or purpose-made heavy-duty pegboard hooks for the supports.
For a rack holding four rolled blades up to 14 inches in diameter, a backer about 20 inches wide by 24 inches tall is a useful starting point. Increase the width if you want the blades side by side rather than stacked. You will also need screws, washers, a drill, a countersink bit, a square, and a permanent marker or label maker.
Do not use thin nails as blade supports. They can bend, loosen, or allow a blade to slide off. If using dowels, 3/8-inch diameter is adequate for light blades, while 1/2-inch dowels are better for wide, heavy resaw blades. Round over the exposed ends so they do not catch skin or the blade’s teeth.
Build a Simple Wall Rack
Cut the plywood backer to size and sand the edges. Mark horizontal rows with at least 2 inches of vertical spacing between them. On each row, install two supports far enough apart to cradle the rolled blade without flattening it. For a 12-inch rolled blade, supports 4 to 6 inches apart usually work well.
Mount the supports with a slight upward angle, or add a short front lip. This prevents vibration or an accidental bump from sending a blade onto the floor. A 1-inch lip made from hardwood strip is enough. Round the lip’s corners and sand every surface that could contact the blade.
Mount the rack to studs whenever possible. A rack loaded with four steel blades can weigh more than 20 pounds, and the repeated pulling force from removing blades is harder on fasteners than the static weight suggests. If studs are unavailable, use a plywood backer large enough to spread the load and install rated hollow-wall anchors. Do not rely on small drywall screws directly in gypsum board.
Keep the rack away from the band saw’s table and wheel covers. Blade changes involve awkward handling, and you do not want a sharp blade hanging where it can catch your arm while you work on the machine.
Handle and Protect the Blades
Always coil a blade correctly before storing it. Hold the blade with the teeth facing away from your body, use both hands, and twist the loop into three smaller loops. If the blade snaps out of control or feels difficult to fold, stop and reset your grip. Wear gloves, but do not rely on gloves to prevent a puncture; band saw teeth can cut through thin work gloves.
Once coiled, secure each blade with a reusable hook-and-loop strap. Avoid wire, zip ties tightened aggressively, or tape wrapped around the teeth. A strap should hold the coil without bending it into a smaller diameter. If a blade develops a permanent kink, it may wander, vibrate, or break during use.
For exposed wall racks, consider storing each blade in a labeled band saw blade storage case or a simple plywood sleeve. A sleeve is especially useful for blades with aggressive hook teeth. It does not need to be airtight; it needs to keep the teeth from contacting other tools.
Label the Blades and Control Moisture
Label each blade with its length, width, tooth pitch, and intended use. For example: “93 in / 1/2 in / 3 TPI / resaw.” Write the information on a tag attached to the strap rather than directly on the blade. Marker ink can disappear under shop grime, and adhesive labels may interfere with the teeth or weld.
Store blades indoors, away from exterior walls that collect condensation. In a damp basement, place a small rechargeable dehumidifier nearby or use a desiccant container in an enclosed cabinet. Wipe surface rust from carbon-steel blades with a lightly oiled rag, but keep oil away from the teeth before cutting wood. A thin film of rust can create rough cuts; deeper pitting is a reason to discard the blade.
When Buying a Storage Product Makes Sense
A homemade rack is cheaper and easier to resize, but a commercial band saw blade organizer rack makes sense when you rent your shop, lack wall space, or want a finished system with enclosed pockets. A plastic tote is acceptable for temporary storage, but do not pile loose blades together. Teeth can damage one another, and finding the correct blade becomes unnecessarily dangerous.
If you have only one spare blade, a strap, a labeled sleeve, and a protected shelf are enough. If you have six or more blades, build the rack with at least 25 percent unused capacity. That small amount of planning is cheaper than rebuilding it after the next blade purchase.
