Table Saw vs Jointer for Ripping a Board with a Crooked Edge
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A jointer and a table saw solve different parts of the problem. A jointer makes one edge of a crooked board straight; a table saw then uses that reference edge to rip the opposite edge parallel. A jointer alone does not produce a reliably parallel finished board, and a table saw fence cannot safely guide a board whose edge wanders away from it.
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Contents
What each machine does
A jointer’s infeed and outfeed tables support the board as a rotating cutterhead removes material from one face or edge. For edge jointing, the goal is a straight, square reference edge. The board must be long enough to remain controlled on the tables, and the cut removes material only where the edge is high. A badly bowed board may need several passes and lose noticeable width.
A table saw makes a straight cut relative to its fence. If the board’s crooked edge is held against the fence, the board can pivot or drift; the saw may bind, kick back, or produce a cut that is not straight. Once one edge is straight, however, the fence can guide that edge to make the other edge parallel.
The usual sequence is therefore: joint one edge, then rip the opposite edge on the table saw. If you only need a straight edge and do not need a parallel width, the jointer may be all you need.
Which machine should you buy?
| Need | Better fit | Reason |
|---|---|---|
| Straight reference edge on solid lumber | Jointer | Its tables and cutterhead remove the edge’s high spots under control. |
| Parallel edges after one edge is straight | Table saw | The fence sets the finished width from the reference edge. |
| Only occasional straightening of short, narrow boards | Hand plane or a shop-made jig | May cost less than buying a jointer, though it takes more setup or hand work. |
| Long, wide, or severely bowed boards | Jointer with adequate table length, or a proper straight-line jig | Short support surfaces make it harder to control long stock accurately. |
If you regularly prepare rough lumber, a jointer is a useful machine to pair with a table saw. Compare woodworking jointers by table length, cutting width, cutterhead type, and fence rigidity—not just motor horsepower. A common benchtop jointer has a 6-inch cutting width; it cannot flatten an edge wider than that in one pass.
If your lumber is already straight-edged or you buy surfaced stock, a jointer may sit unused. In that case, spend on a table saw with a stable fence and accurate adjustments instead. A woodworking table saw is the more useful first machine for many shops, but it does not replace the jointer when rough stock has no straight reference edge.
How to joint the crooked edge
Inspect the board first. Mark the intended reference edge and check whether the curve is a bow along the length, a cup across the width, or a twist. Edge jointing can correct a crooked edge, but it does not fix a twisted face; that twist can make the board rock on the jointer table and produce an unreliable edge. If the board will not sit steadily, flatten a face first with an appropriate method or choose different stock.
Set a light cut, commonly around 1/32 inch or less for a final pass. Keep the edge against the fence and feed at a steady pace, applying pressure to the infeed table before the cutter and transferring pressure to the outfeed table as the board passes the cutterhead. Use push blocks or other safe workholding, especially on narrow pieces. Do not joint stock shorter than the machine’s minimum length or so narrow that your hands cannot stay safely clear of the cutterhead; follow the machine manual.
After a pass, check the full edge with a straightedge. A gap at the middle or ends shows where more correction is needed. Do not keep taking full-length cuts if the board is already straight: excess removal reduces width and can introduce a hollow or taper. If the curve is severe, rough-cut close to the intended line with a band saw or handsaw, leaving roughly 1/16 to 1/8 inch for jointing. That reduces wasted wood and the number of jointer passes.
Ripping parallel on the table saw
Place the jointed edge against the fence. Set the fence for the desired finished width, allowing for any extra stock you plan to remove later. Use a push stick or push block as the board narrows, keep the offcut from being trapped between the blade and fence, and use the blade guard and riving knife where compatible with the cut. Do not freehand a rip or force a crooked edge against the fence in an attempt to straighten it.
A long board needs support at the infeed and outfeed ends so its weight does not lift it off the table or steer it away from the fence. Outfeed support should be level with the saw table. If the board is too long to control safely alone, get help or use a suitable support system; a helper should support the stock without pulling it or standing directly behind the blade.
When a jointer is not worth buying
For a few boards a year, a jointer may be an expensive answer to an occasional problem. A straight-line ripping jig lets the table saw follow a known-straight rail while the crooked edge overhangs the jig. After that first cut, flip the board and rip the second edge against the fence. A jig costs less than another stationary machine, but it takes setup, uses extra stock width, and needs enough support for the board. It is not a shortcut for unstable, twisted lumber.
A band saw can also make the rough cut close to a straight line, but its blade can wander and leave a rough edge. Leave a small margin and finish with a jointer or hand plane. For the occasional project, that combination is often cheaper than buying a jointer; for repeated work in rough lumber, the time and waste saved can justify one.
Make the choice around your stock
For a crooked board that must end up straight and parallel, use a jointer to create the reference edge and a table saw to rip the final width. Buy a jointer if you routinely work with rough lumber and can safely handle the board sizes you use. If your stock is usually straight-edged, the table saw is the practical purchase, and a jig or hand plane can cover occasional corrections.
