How to Use a Jointer Push Block for Safe Face Jointing
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Face jointing means flattening one broad face of a board on the jointer before using that face as a reference for edge jointing or thickness planing. The cutterhead removes material from the board’s underside while the infeed and outfeed tables support it. A push block keeps your hands above the cutters and helps maintain steady downward pressure, but it does not make an unsafe setup safe. Correct stock size, cutter protection, and hand placement still matter.
Contents
Choose the Right Push Block
For face jointing, use a low-profile push block with a large, grippy base. A rubber-faced block or one with replaceable abrasive material gives better control than a small plastic handle. The block should let you apply downward pressure without forcing your wrist into an awkward angle. A handle that is too tall can encourage you to push down and forward at the same time, which makes it easier to lose control.
Two blocks are normally better than one: one near the leading end of the board and another near the trailing end. They let you keep pressure over the table instead of reaching toward the cutterhead. For ordinary boards, a pair of jointer push blocks is usually enough. A long, flat push pad can be useful for wide panels, but it is not automatically safer if it is difficult to lift clear of the cutterhead at the end of the cut.
| Stock or situation | Useful push-block setup | Main concern |
|---|---|---|
| Board wider than about 4 inches | Two standard rubber-faced blocks | Keep pressure centered and avoid rocking |
| Board narrower than about 4 inches | Two compact blocks, or a narrow push pad | Keep hands away from the cutterhead and fence |
| Long board over about 5 feet | Two blocks plus outfeed support | Prevent the board from tipping after the cutterhead |
| Short board | Use a carrier or different stock if possible | Short pieces leave little room for safe hand placement |
Inspect and Set Up the Jointer
Disconnect power before adjusting the jointer. Confirm that the cutter guard moves freely and returns over the exposed cutterhead. The guard should cover the cutterhead whenever the board is not over it. Check that the fence is square to the tables, the knives or inserts are properly seated, and the outfeed table is aligned with the highest point of the cutter arc.
Set the depth of cut conservatively. For general hardwood face jointing, 1/32 inch is a sensible starting point. Use 1/16 inch only when the machine is rigid, the stock is reasonably flat, and the feed rate remains controlled. A heavy cut increases the chance of tear-out, stalling, or the board lifting as it enters the cutterhead. On a small benchtop jointer, 1/32 inch or less is often the practical limit for wide material.
Remove loose knots, nails, staples, and dirt before jointing. Do not joint stock that is too short for your machine’s safe procedure. A common rule is to avoid pieces shorter than twice the distance between the cutterhead and outfeed table, and many woodworkers simply use 12 inches as a practical minimum. Follow your jointer’s manual if it specifies a larger minimum.
How to Use the Push Blocks
Place the board on the infeed table with the concave side down when possible. This gives the board more stable contact at the beginning of the cut. Stand to the side of the board, not directly behind it. Your body should not be in line with the board in case it kicks back or is thrown from the table.
Start the jointer and allow it to reach full speed. Set the board on the infeed table without touching the cutterhead. Put the front push block near the leading end, several inches from the edge, and apply firm downward pressure. Push forward at a steady rate. Do not press hard enough to bow the board into the cutterhead.
As soon as roughly 6 to 8 inches of the board has passed onto the outfeed table, move the second block onto the newly jointed surface. Keep the first block on the infeed side only as long as it is useful, then lift it and bring it forward. The important change is that pressure should gradually transfer from the infeed table to the outfeed table. Do not drag a block backward over the cutterhead.
Once most of the board is supported by the outfeed table, keep the rear block over that table and push the board forward. Lift each block before it reaches the end of the cutterhead opening. Never let the block’s base pass over exposed knives or inserts. Finish the cut with the board fully on the outfeed table, then turn off the machine and wait for the cutterhead to stop before removing waste or checking the result.
Hand Position and Pressure
Keep both hands on the push blocks whenever the board is long enough to allow it. Do not place a free hand on top of the board near the cutterhead. Your hands should remain behind the cutting action, with fingers inside the push-block handles and thumbs wrapped securely around them.
Use downward pressure to hold the stock against the table and forward pressure to feed it. The amount should be firm but controlled. Excessive downward pressure on the infeed side can keep a warped board from following its natural path and may produce a hollow face. Excessive pressure on the outfeed side can force the board down and create a taper. If the board rocks, stop and inspect the setup rather than trying to correct it with more force.
Common Failures and Better Solutions
Using one small block: This often leaves the trailing end unsupported and makes the board pivot. Use two blocks or a longer pad with a clear, safe lifting path.
Feeding too quickly: Fast feeding can leave ridges and increases motor load. Slow down, reduce the cut, or use a sharper cutterhead. A helical or insert-style cutterhead can reduce tear-out and noise, but it does not remove the need for safe hand placement. If you are replacing worn accessories, compare rubber-grip push pads rather than choosing solely by handle size.
Jointing against the grain: Grain direction that rises into the cut can cause splintering, especially in figured hardwood. Reverse the board if practical, take a lighter cut, and use a slower, steady feed.
Trying to flatten severely bowed stock in one operation: A jointer removes high spots, but it cannot safely correct every twist. Mark the high areas, take light passes, and use a planer after one face is flat. For very short or awkward pieces, a carrier sled or router-based flattening method may be safer than forcing the board through the jointer.
When to Buy a Better Push Block
The cheaper option is fine if its base grips reliably, its handle is comfortable, and it can be lifted clear of the cutterhead without awkward movement. Replace it when the rubber has hardened, the base is warped, or the handle loosens. A premium block may offer better grip, larger contact area, or easier replacement pads, but it will not compensate for a poorly aligned table or an aggressive depth setting. For frequent face jointing, a matched pair of woodworking push blocks is a worthwhile convenience; for occasional work, an inexpensive pair is usually adequate.
