How to Replace Band Saw Wheel Tires
What's inside
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Band saw tires are the rubber or polyurethane rings fitted around the wheel rims. They support the blade, help it track, and keep the metal wheel from contacting the blade directly. Replace a tire if it is cracked, loose, swollen, badly worn, or coming off the wheel. A tire that has simply collected pitch may only need cleaning; replacing it will not fix poor tracking caused by a bent wheel, worn bearings, or incorrect blade tension.
Contents
Choose the right tire
First identify your saw’s make and model, then check its parts diagram or measure the existing tire and wheel. Wheel diameter alone is not enough: tire width, thickness, profile, and fit also matter. Tires are commonly sold as rubber or polyurethane, in flat or crowned profiles. Match the original specification unless the saw manufacturer recommends an alternative.
| Type | Advantages | Trade-offs |
|---|---|---|
| Rubber | Often inexpensive and widely available; can provide good grip. | Usually fitted with adhesive and may need stretching and careful positioning. It can age, crack, or harden. |
| Polyurethane | Often installs without adhesive; resists aging and is relatively easy to clean. | Can cost more, and the correct size is essential. A poor fit can shift or distort. |
For an older saw used occasionally, a correctly sized rubber tire may be the economical choice. Polyurethane can be convenient if you want a simpler installation or the saw sees regular use, but it is not automatically a performance upgrade. Compare the cost of a replacement band saw tire set with the manufacturer’s part price and verify the dimensions before ordering.
Tools and preparation
You will generally need the saw manual, eye protection, a flat screwdriver or plastic scraper, cleaning cloths, and a way to remove the blade. Keep a camera or phone handy to record blade direction, guides, and wheel alignment. For adhesive-backed or rubber tires, use only an adhesive compatible with the tire material; do not assume household glue is suitable. A tire-compatible adhesive is preferable to an improvised substitute.
Unplug the saw before opening its doors. Do not rely on the switch being off. Let the machine stop completely, then release blade tension according to the manual. Wear gloves when handling the blade, but remove them before working near any powered machine. If the tire is crumbling, avoid pulling hard enough to damage the wheel rim.
Remove the old tires
Open the wheel covers and note how the blade sits on each tire. Remove the blade as directed by the manufacturer, taking care with its sharp teeth. If your saw has a blade guard or guides that obstruct access, loosen or remove them as needed and record their original positions.
Lift off a polyurethane tire by hand, working it around the rim. If it is tight, ease it off with a blunt plastic tool rather than a sharp screwdriver that could gouge the wheel. For an adhesive-bonded rubber tire, peel away the old material and scrape off residue carefully. Avoid nicking the rim: a raised spot or deep scratch can make the new tire seat unevenly and create a recurring tracking problem.
Clean the rim and let it dry fully. Inspect the wheel for corrosion, burrs, cracks, and side-to-side wobble. Spin it by hand and watch its edge. A tire cannot correct a damaged or loose wheel. If the wheel wobbles noticeably, its bearings are rough, or the rim is cracked, stop and repair that problem before installing new tires.
Install the new tires
For a stretch-fit polyurethane tire, warm it in warm—not boiling—water if the manufacturer permits. This makes it more pliable. Do not use a torch or heat gun; concentrated heat can damage the tire. Hook one section over the rim and work around the wheel with your hands, keeping the tire centered and untwisted. Some tires are tight enough to require two people. Do not lever hard against the rim.
For a rubber tire, follow its adhesive instructions. Apply a thin, even layer rather than a thick bead, since excess adhesive can create lumps under the tire. Position the tire centrally on the rim, press it down around the full circumference, and allow the stated cure time. Rushing this step can leave a loose section that walks off the wheel during use.
Check that the tire is seated consistently on both edges. If it has a crowned profile, the crown should be centered. If the tire is twisted, bunched, or visibly uneven, remove and refit it before putting the blade back on. Do not try to correct a poor tire installation by overtightening the blade.
Reinstall and test
Reinstall the blade in the correct direction and restore the guides and guards. Set blade tension and tracking according to the manual. Turn the wheels by hand for several revolutions, watching whether the blade stays in its intended position and whether either tire shifts. Check that the blade does not rub the wheel covers or guides.
Close the covers before reconnecting power. Stand clear of the blade path and run the saw briefly, then switch it off and unplug it before inspecting again. If the tire has moved, the blade drifts, or you hear a new rubbing sound, do not continue cutting. Recheck tire seating, tracking, tension, and wheel condition. A few minutes of inspection now can prevent a damaged blade—or a tire thrown from the wheel—during a cut.
