14-Inch vs 20-Inch Band Saw for Resawing Oversized Boards
What's inside
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Contents
What the inch size means
A 14-inch or 20-inch band saw is named for the approximate distance from the blade to the column. That measurement tells you the maximum width of a board you can feed between the blade and the frame. It does not tell you how thick a board the saw can resaw. For that, check the machine’s published cutting capacity: many 14-inch saws offer about 6 inches, while 20-inch machines commonly allow roughly 12 inches or more.
Resawing turns a board on edge and cuts it lengthwise into thinner boards. If your stock is 7 inches thick, a typical 14-inch saw with 6 inches of capacity cannot handle it in one pass. A 20-inch saw may be able to, but only if its stated capacity, motor, blade, and setup are suitable for the work.
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Capacity is not the whole story
A saw’s maximum resaw height is a limit, not a promise of a clean, controlled cut at that height. A small saw may have enough clearance for a thick board but lack the power or stiffness to cut it efficiently. Dense hardwood, a dull blade, and feeding too fast can all make the blade wander or stall.
Compare the full setup: motor power, frame rigidity, blade length and width, guides, and fence. A wide blade, often 3/4 inch or wider for substantial resawing, is generally more stable than a narrow scroll-cutting blade. But the saw must be designed to tension that blade correctly. A scale or tension gauge is useful; tensioning by guesswork is a common route to poor tracking and uneven cuts.
14-inch versus 20-inch
| Factor | 14-inch band saw | 20-inch band saw |
|---|---|---|
| Typical resaw capacity | About 6 inches, though models vary | Often about 12 inches or more |
| Best fit | Boards within capacity; occasional resawing | Thick stock and frequent, high-capacity work |
| Space and cost | Smaller footprint and lower purchase cost | More floor space, higher purchase cost |
| Handling large stock | Usually needs less outfeed support | Large boards need careful support and handling |
| Main limitation | Height and often power for heavy cuts | Cost and size; capacity still depends on setup |
A well-set-up 14-inch saw can resaw boards up to its capacity, especially when the work is occasional and the stock is not especially hard. It is often the sensible choice for a small shop that mostly cuts lumber up to 5 or 6 inches thick. Before buying, verify the actual capacity rather than assuming all 14-inch saws are alike. Some can be fitted with a riser block, but the added height does not automatically give the saw enough power, blade support, or frame rigidity for reliable heavy resawing.
A 20-inch saw makes sense when you regularly resaw stock taller than a 14-inch machine allows, or need more capacity for future projects. It can reduce the need to flatten, trim, or divide stock before sawing. That convenience comes with a larger footprint, a higher price, and heavier material to guide. A big saw is not a substitute for sharp blades, good alignment, or stable infeed and outfeed support.
Choose for your stock, not the label
Measure the lumber you actually expect to cut. Include any uneven edges or rough surfaces that affect how the board sits against the table. If your usual work is 4/4 or 8/4 lumber and only an occasional board approaches 6 inches, a capable 14-inch machine may be enough. If you routinely need to split 8- to 10-inch slabs, a 20-inch saw with suitable capacity is the more practical category.
Also consider board length and weight. A 10-inch-thick, 8-foot board is difficult to control even if the saw can cut it. Plan a level infeed and outfeed path, and get help moving stock when needed. A board that tips or binds can pull the blade off line. Do not try to force a bowed or twisted board through a narrow cut without first deciding how it will sit and track against the fence.
For occasional resawing, compare a properly equipped 14-inch band saw with resaw capacity. If the required cut exceeds its stated height, moving the fence or changing the blade will not create the missing clearance. Consider a 20-inch band saw for high-capacity resawing when that extra height is a regular need rather than a rare possibility.
Blade and setup matter
For long resaw cuts, choose a sharp blade intended for resawing, with a tooth pitch suited to the thickness of the stock. A common starting point is a 3/4-inch blade with about 3 teeth per inch, but confirm that your saw can tension that blade and consult the blade maker’s guidance. Too many teeth can clog with sawdust in thick stock; too few can make the cut rougher or harder to control.
Set the guides close to the board without pinching the blade, align the fence to the blade’s actual cutting path, and test on scrap from similar material. If the cut drifts, first check blade sharpness, tension, tracking, fence alignment, and feed rate. Pushing harder usually makes the problem worse. A visibly wandering blade or repeated motor slowdown is a reason to stop and correct the setup, not to force the cut.
When the cheaper saw is enough
Buy the 14-inch saw if its capacity covers your stock and resawing is a modest part of your work. The money saved may be better spent on a quality blade, a reliable fence, dust collection, or a planer to bring resawn faces flat. A wider saw is not automatically more accurate, and it may be poor value if most of your lumber is thin.
Choose the 20-inch category when capacity is the recurring constraint and the shop has room for the machine and the boards. Check the manufacturer’s maximum resaw height, recommended blade widths, and motor rating before committing. The right saw is the smallest one that can safely and consistently handle the stock you actually resaw—not the biggest machine that fits the budget.
