How to Make a Band Saw Resaw Fence Parallel to the Blade
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A band saw resaw fence should be parallel to the blade’s actual cutting path, not automatically parallel to the table slot or front edge of the table. If the blade drifts while cutting, forcing the fence into a “perfect” slot-parallel position can make the cut worse. The practical goal is a fence that lets you feed stock straight without pushing sideways against the blade.
Contents
Before You Adjust the Fence
Start with the machine in good condition. A dull, bent, or incorrectly installed blade can make fence alignment impossible to judge. For resawing, use a sharp blade intended for the job, commonly 1/2 to 3/4 inch wide with about 2 to 3 teeth per inch. A wider blade usually tracks more steadily, but it also needs a saw with adequate wheel capacity and tension.
Check that the blade is tracking correctly on the wheel crowns, the teeth are not contacting the wheel tires, and the upper and lower guides are set just behind the blade gullets. Set the blade tension according to the saw manufacturer’s guidance. Excessive tension can damage the saw; too little tension allows the blade to wander.
Use a straight, flat test board. A board roughly 6 to 8 inches wide, 2 to 3 feet long, and at least 1-1/2 inches thick gives a useful test without being awkward. Joint or plane one face and one edge first. If the reference edge is not straight, you will be measuring the board’s defects instead of the saw’s drift.
Find the Blade’s Drift
Blade drift is the tendency of the blade to move at an angle to the direction the stock is being fed. It comes from tooth set, sharpening, blade condition, wheel alignment, and how the blade is tracking. Different blades can drift differently, so fence alignment is not permanent if you change blades.
Make a freehand cut into the test board for 12 to 18 inches. Do not use the fence. Feed at a steady rate and avoid twisting the board to correct the cut. Stop the saw, leaving the board in place if it is safe to do so, and mark the angle between the board’s straight edge and the blade. You can also continue the cut and inspect the kerf. The direction that the board naturally points while the cut proceeds is the drift angle.
For a more repeatable result, draw a line parallel to the reference edge and make a partial cut while keeping the board on that line. The angle at which the board wants to travel tells you how much the fence must be rotated. On some saws the drift is only a degree or two; on others it can be several degrees.
Align the Fence to the Drift
Disconnect power before loosening the fence hardware. Place the fence on the table and set it near the blade, but leave enough room for the board to pass without rubbing. If the fence is adjustable, loosen its mounting bolts just enough that you can pivot it. Align the fence with the drift angle, with the rear end offset in the direction needed to match the board’s natural travel.
There are two common setups:
| Fence setup | Advantages | Drawbacks |
|---|---|---|
| Pivoting fence aligned to drift | Fast to adjust and convenient when changing blades | May not line up with the miter slot or other accessories |
| Fixed fence with a shim at one end | Cheap, simple, and effective on basic saws | Requires rechecking after blade changes and careful clamping |
| Tall resaw fence with adjustable face | Better support for tall stock and more controlled adjustments | Costs more and can magnify alignment errors if poorly installed |
If your fence is fixed square to the table slot, place a thin shim under one end of the fence or between the fence and its mounting rail. Start with a 1/32-inch shim over a 12- to 24-inch fence. That small amount can produce a noticeable angle. Tighten the hardware gradually, checking that the fence does not move as the bolts clamp down.
A tall fence is useful for resawing because it supports the board above the table. A commercially made band saw resaw fence is convenient, but a straight hardwood or plywood face can work just as well if it is flat, rigid, and securely attached. The cheaper option is fine for occasional resawing; the advantage of a purchased fence is easier adjustment and repeatability.
Check Parallel With a Test Cut
Set the fence for a cut and place the jointed edge of the test board against it. Start the saw and feed slowly. Do not force the board into the fence. Your hands should guide the board forward while maintaining light contact with the fence.
Watch the kerf and the board’s behavior. If the board constantly pulls away from the fence, the rear of the fence is probably angled too far away from the blade’s drift. If the board jams against the fence or requires strong sideways pressure, the fence is angled too far toward the blade. Make small corrections, such as moving the back of the fence 1/16 inch at a time, then repeat the cut.
The goal is not necessarily a fence that is geometrically parallel to the visible blade from above. The goal is a feed path in which the board moves smoothly and the blade cuts without being twisted. Once the cut feels neutral, measure the resulting board thickness at the front and rear. A difference greater than about 1/32 inch over a typical resaw length indicates that the setup still needs attention, although uneven stock or blade deflection can also cause it.
Avoid Common Alignment Mistakes
Do not align the fence to the table slot simply because the slot looks straight. The slot is useful for crosscut accessories, but it does not define the blade’s drift. Do not use a square against the teeth as your only reference; tooth set can make the blade appear wider on one side. Check the blade body or use the test-cut method.
Do not compensate for a bad blade by rotating the fence dramatically. If the fence requires an extreme angle, inspect the blade for dull teeth, uneven set, weld damage, or incorrect tracking. Also check whether the wheels are coplanar and whether the guides are pushing the blade sideways.
For frequent blade changes, mark the fence position for each blade or use an adjustable adjustable band saw resaw fence. Keep a small set of feeler gauges or thin plastic shims nearby. A shim is often more precise than trying to bend or force a rigid fence into alignment.
Final Safety Check
After alignment, tighten every fence clamp and make a final test cut. Confirm that the fence does not shift when the board contacts it, that the blade remains centered in the kerf, and that the upper guide is set only slightly above the stock. Use push blocks or a suitable resaw push handle when your hands would approach the blade, and never reach behind the workpiece while the blade is running.
