Best Band Saws with Tall Fences for Wide Stock
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Contents
What Makes a Band Saw Fence “Tall”?
A tall fence gives wide or tall stock more support as it passes the blade. On a band saw, “wide stock” can mean a panel being trimmed on edge, a thick board being resawn, or an irregular blank that needs steadying. The fence does not increase the machine’s cutting capacity; it makes that capacity easier to use accurately.
Most factory fences are only a few inches high. That is adequate for ordinary ripping and curve work, but it can feel undersized when resawing a 6- to 12-inch board. A good tall fence is usually an aftermarket fence with a straight aluminum or steel base and a replaceable wooden face. The wooden face can be raised with a 3/4-inch board, plywood, or MDF and trimmed to align closely with the blade.
Look for a fence that locks at both ends or has a rigid front locking mechanism. A fence that flexes when you press a board against it will produce a tapered cut, even if the blade is sharp and the table is square.
The Best Band Saw Types for Wide Stock
For wide stock, prioritize throat capacity, resaw height, frame stiffness, and guide quality before fence height. A tall fence on a small, flexible saw does not turn it into a resaw machine.
| Band saw type | Typical resaw capacity | Fence situation | Best use |
|---|---|---|---|
| Compact benchtop | 4 to 6 inches | Basic fence or aftermarket low fence | Small parts, thin boards, occasional curves |
| 14-inch floor model | 6 to 12 inches, depending on riser block | Good platform for a tall resaw fence | General furniture work and moderate resawing |
| 18-inch floor model | 12 inches or more | Usually supports substantial aftermarket fences | Wide boards, thick hardwood, frequent resawing |
| Industrial cabinet band saw | 12 to 18 inches or more | Rigid, tall, and often adjustable | Production work and large stock |
A 14-inch saw with a riser block is often the practical middle ground. It costs less and uses less shop space than an 18-inch machine, while offering enough height for many furniture projects. The trade-off is reduced frame stiffness and sometimes less power. If you regularly resaw dense 10-inch hardwood, the larger saw is easier to keep on line.
What to Buy
For most home shops, start by comparing 14-inch band saws with riser blocks. Choose a machine with at least a 1-1/2-horsepower motor if thick hardwood will be routine. Smaller motors can work, but you will need a slower feed rate and a properly sharpened blade.
If your work includes frequent resawing of wide boards, compare 18-inch band saws with large resaw capacity. The extra wheel diameter and heavier frame generally provide better tracking and smoother cuts. They also take more floor space, cost more, and may require a dedicated electrical circuit.
Do not assume a machine advertised with high resaw capacity will cut that height effectively with its included blade. Check the blade width range, guide design, motor rating, and the manufacturer’s recommended maximum. A saw may physically accept a 12-inch board but struggle to push it through cleanly.
For the fence itself, an aftermarket tall resaw fence is usually a better upgrade than trying to make a factory fence taller with an unsupported board. A homemade fence is fine when it is straight, securely attached, and aligned with the blade. The cheaper option works particularly well for occasional resawing.
Blade and Guide Requirements
A tall fence exposes weaknesses elsewhere in the setup. For straight resawing, a wide blade is normally easier to control than a narrow one. A 3/4-inch blade with roughly 2 to 3 teeth per inch is a common choice on larger saws. On a smaller machine, a 1/2-inch blade may be the practical limit. Follow the saw’s blade-width specifications rather than forcing a wider blade onto small guides.
Use a blade with adequate set and a tooth pattern that clears chips. A fine-tooth blade can load up in thick hardwood, heat the cut, and start wandering. If the cut begins straight but curves near the bottom, the blade may be dull, under-tensioned, improperly welded, or clogged with resin.
Set the upper guides just above the workpiece and keep the thrust bearing close behind the blade without touching it during free running. Excessive guide clearance allows the blade to deflect when the tall workpiece contacts the fence. Check that the lower guides are adjusted as well; they are easy to ignore and important during deep cuts.
How to Set Up a Tall Fence
Start with the table square to the blade, then align the fence for the blade’s natural drift. Most band saw blades do not track perfectly parallel to the table slot. Make a shallow test cut in scrap, keep the board against the fence without forcing it, and observe the angle. Adjust the fence so the board feeds naturally rather than twisting into the blade.
Use a tall face only when it is actually needed. A 10-inch face can increase friction and make a narrow board harder to control. For ordinary 1-inch stock, a 3- to 4-inch face is often more convenient. For resawing, a tall face supports the board but should not be used as a substitute for steady, even feed pressure.
Keep the fence face slightly proud of the table and free of bumps. Wax or low-friction tape can help wide boards slide, but do not make the surface so slippery that you lose control. Support long stock with an outfeed table or roller, positioned so it cannot lift the work into the blade.
Common Buying Mistakes
The most common mistake is buying by throat depth alone. Throat capacity tells you how far the work can sit from the frame; it does not tell you how tall a board the saw can resaw or how rigidly it will do so. Also check table size, dust collection, blade tension range, and whether replacement tires and guides are readily available.
Another mistake is choosing a tall fence that blocks access to the upper blade guides or cannot be removed quickly for curved cuts. A good fence should lock firmly, adjust easily, and come off without dismantling the guide assembly. If you only resaw occasionally, a removable fence and a homemade tall face may be the best value.
For most woodworkers, a sturdy 14-inch floor saw with a riser block and a properly supported aftermarket fence is the sensible starting point. Move to an 18-inch or industrial machine when wide hardwood resawing is frequent, production speed matters, or the smaller saw’s frame and motor are clearly the limiting factors.
