How to Reduce Jointer Snipe at the Board Exit
What's inside
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Jointer snipe is the shallow dip or taper left on the last few inches of a board as it leaves the cutterhead. It happens when the board loses support from the infeed table before the trailing end has cleared the knives. The board pivots downward, and the cutterhead removes more wood from the end.
A small amount of snipe may be acceptable when rough-cutting parts oversize. It is a problem when you need a straight reference edge, a square end, or maximum usable length. The good news is that most exit snipe comes from setup and feeding technique rather than a defective jointer.
Contents
Check Table Alignment First
Start with the outfeed table. With the cutterhead stopped and unplugged, place a straightedge across the outfeed table and rotate the cutterhead by hand. A straightedge should just touch the outfeed table and the highest point of each knife or insert. If the knives are low, the board drops as it crosses onto the outfeed table and the cutter removes extra material at the exit.
On a typical jointer, the outfeed table should be set level with the knives at their highest point. A useful target is within about 0.001 to 0.002 inch. A slightly high outfeed table can leave an uncut ridge or make the board difficult to push, while a low table produces snipe.
Use a reliable 24- to 36-inch straightedge rather than a short ruler. Check both ends of the cutterhead and several positions across the table. If your jointer uses straight knives, verify that each knife is at the same height. On a helical or spiral head, inspect the inserts for damage and check that they are clean and fully seated.
A precision woodworking straightedge is useful for this adjustment. The cheaper option is fine if it is genuinely straight; a flexible hardware-store level is not a substitute.
Support the Board Through the Exit
Keep downward pressure over the outfeed table after the board’s leading end reaches it, but do not press heavily on the portion still over the infeed table. Your hands should transfer pressure gradually from the infeed side to the outfeed side.
For the first part of the cut, press down on the stock over the infeed table. Once roughly half the board is on the outfeed table, move your forward hand there and apply pressure to the freshly jointed surface. Keep the board flat and maintain forward pressure with the other hand. When the trailing end approaches the cutterhead, do not push down on it. That action tips the board into the knives and creates exit snipe.
Use push blocks that give you control without forcing your hands near the cutterhead. A pair of jointer push blocks is usually enough for ordinary stock. Magnetic or premium designs can improve grip, but inexpensive rubber-faced blocks work well when the soles are clean and the board is not oily.
Use a Sacrificial Leader or Trailer
When the setup is correct but a board still shows a small amount of snipe, joint it with a sacrificial piece attached to the end. A trailer board gives the cutterhead something to cut as the workpiece leaves the table, keeping the actual board supported during the critical transition.
Use a straight piece of scrap with the same thickness as the workpiece. Butt it tightly against the trailing end, or use a small amount of low-tack double-sided tape if the joint must stay together. Joint the assembly as one continuous feed. The scrap takes the damage, so leave at least 4 to 6 inches for the trailer.
A leader board at the front can also help with short stock, especially when the jointer’s infeed table is short. This method costs scrap and adds handling time, but it is often cheaper than wasting a long hardwood board. Do not use a loose scrap block that can shift sideways or catch on the cutterhead.
Compare the Main Fixes
| Fix | Typical cost | Best use | Trade-off |
|---|---|---|---|
| Re-level outfeed table | $0 | Persistent snipe on every board | Requires careful measurement and knife adjustment |
| Improve hand pressure | $0 | Light snipe caused by feeding technique | Does not correct mechanical misalignment |
| Push blocks | About $15–$60 | Better control and safer feeding | Must be kept clean and flat |
| Sacrificial trailer | Scrap wood | Occasional work or short tables | Uses material and adds a setup step |
| Longer-bed jointer | Hundreds to thousands of dollars | Frequent work with long, heavy boards | High cost and substantial floor space |
Check Bed Length and Stock Support
Short jointers are more prone to exit snipe because the board loses support sooner. A 6-inch benchtop jointer may handle small parts well, but a long 8- or 10-foot board can lever against its short tables. If you routinely joint boards longer than about 6 feet, provide infeed and outfeed support at the same height as the jointer tables.
Use stable stands or roller supports, but check that the rollers do not lift the board above the table. A support that is even 1/16 inch too high can alter the cut and cause a new dip or taper. Ball-bearing supports can work, but they may allow a rough board to wander. Wide, flat support stands are generally more predictable for jointer work.
If you are buying equipment, spend money on bed length before decorative features. A longer jointer table reduces leverage and makes long stock easier to control. A woodworking support stand is the cheaper solution when long boards are occasional rather than routine.
Avoid Common Failure Modes
Do not try to remove snipe by taking an aggressive cut. Set the infeed table for roughly 1/32 inch on ordinary hardwood, or less for difficult grain and final passes. Heavy cuts increase the force needed to hold the board flat and make tipping more likely.
Inspect the board for a hollow or twisted underside. If it rocks on the infeed table, the stock can pivot regardless of how well the jointer is adjusted. Flatten the first section with light cuts before attempting a full-length pass.
Finally, joint with the grain whenever possible. Tearout at the exit can look like snipe, especially on figured wood. If the dip is measurable with a straightedge, fix alignment and support. If the surface is merely ragged, reduce the cut, change feed direction, or use a sharper cutter.
